The Independent Mind: Paul Smith’s Spring ’16 Men’s Collection
Known for expertly balancing traditional structured shapes and a modern sense of fluidity—and a few surprising dashes of color and pattern thrown in—the iconic designer takes The Window behind the scenes for an inside look at both his Spring’16 collection and the inner workings of his energetic mind.
Ask designer Paul Smith to describe the aesthetic of his brand, and he’ll tell you that the phrase ‘classic with a twist’ is overused, but nonetheless apt. “When I was beginning my career,” he recently told The Window, “people used to say, ‘You’re quite classic, but there’s always a sense of humor or there’s always something hidden.’ It’s stayed with me, and I think it describes me very well.”
The Paris offices of Paul Smith are housed in the former residence of a wealthy French merchant, built more than 300 years ago.
We recently caught up with the designer at his Paris offices and showroom as he was putting the finishing touches on his men’s Spring 2016 runway show. From model castings and prepping accessories to pairing pieces together in unexpected ways, Smith was a frenzy of activity as he completed a collection that drew inspiration from long-time clients, some of whom have stuck with the designer since the launch of his namesake brand in the 1970s.
“The nickname for this particular collection is ‘The Independent Mind,’ and that comes from an observation of many of my clients over the years—they’re really independent people,” Smith told us. “They’re often people who have started out in a humble way—as an actor, as a singer, or in the theatre—so they’re independent in their way of thinking. The collection is based on that and the fact that you can put together whatever you want. It’s not coordinated in a very considered way. It’s more fun than that. So it’ll be a biker jacket with a different, fun-colored trouser, or patent on patent, or a very classic suit with some very wacky shoes. It’s very much about the independent mind.”
Paul Smith reviews model casting and completed runway outfits, pairing the correct jewelry with each look.
Sporting a tailored suit paired with a boat-neck t-shirt and a bright “wacky” slip-on, a model undergoes final inspection before the look is finalized.
An assortment of Smith’s runway shoes await their turn at a spin.
That consideration of the independent mind extends just as easily to the man himself as to the pieces he designs. Long known for his whimsical interpretation of classic English sportswear, Paul Smith attributes his differentiated point of view to one defining characteristic: “I think I’m very boyish and, luckily, still quite child-like. Not childish, but child-like—very full of energy,” he says. This vigor can be seen with collections that have gotten progressively further away from his British roots. “At the beginning of my career, it was very much about reworking English classics like tweed or corduroy—fabrics and styles that were essential Britain,” he says. “But the world is such a small place now. There’s a lot less obvious Englishness around now generally, and definitely here at Paul Smith there’s a lot less.”
Some of that change can be attributed to a shift in muse as much as a shift in mood. Having gone from initially designing almost exclusively for himself and what he liked to wear, Smith has broadened his scope as the brand has grown. “I don’t personally like what I call ‘show-off clothes’—for myself, I prefer fairly low-key clothes, but always with a sense of fun,” he says. “As the company has progressed, though, you have to seek a balance in the collection. You have to have the attention-seeking pieces for the fashion show, and then you have to have the pieces that pay the rent—the classic navy blue suit, white shirt, et cetera. There are a lot of very easy-to-wear clothes that still have a point of view.”
Pops of color and quirky prints—are those ants I see?—define Smith’s ‘classic with a twist’ designs.
Each look receives detailed styling instructions as it’s finalized.
And when we asked the designer about his inspiration in general, beyond this collection, his answer was a definite one. “I’m a great lover of life,” he said. “I’m a very optimistic person; I’m very positive every day. I’ve always had a good sense of humor. I’ve always enjoyed color.” He also heaps no shortage of praise on the woman who had been by his side since the beginning. “My wife has been a huge influence to me. She started out in fashion and helped me get my start, but now she’s developed as a painter and an artist, and she dances as well. She opens doors that I wouldn’t necessarily have opened myself. Because of her, I’ve become more familiar with the worlds of art, architecture, graphic design, theater, and dance. And all of those inspire me. It’s all part of my love for life.”
Paul Smith shows off the details of one of his favorite jackets for the collection.
For the runway, that jacket is paired with a vibrant sweater and gets an extra color boost with the addition of a kelly green belt.